Recommendation: Cat Ba Island + Ha Long Bay boat tour and Hoi An are a must
I took 3 weeks to travel from Northern to Southern Vietnam by bus. If you have time, it is a unique way to travel. If you only have 1-2 weeks, the highlights I'd recommend are: Hanoi, Cat Ba/Ha Long Bay, Phong Nha, Hoi An, Mui Ne, and Saigon.
Route overview:
Diem Bien Vue -> Sapa -> Hanoi -> Cat Ba/ Ha Long Bay -> Ninh Binh -> Phong Nah -> Hue -> Hoi An -> Nha Thang -> Dalat -> Mui Ne -> Saigon
Diem Bien Vue (1 night)
6-hour bus ride to Sapa ($12)
Sapa (1 night)
6-hour bus ride to Hanoi ($13)
Hanoi (2 nights)
Hoa Lo Prision
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
Walked around Hoan Kiem Lake
Water puppet show
Bought a knockoff Northface jacket that kept me really warm ($13)
4-hour bus + ferry ride to Cat Ba Island ($14)
Cat Ba (3 nights)
Did an all day boat tour of Ha Long Bay (MUST DO). The tour company I used was called 'Cat Ba Ventures'. It cost $29 and included kayaking through caves, a stop at a fish nursery, and lunch. I was on the fence about doing an overnight boat trip through Ha Long Bay, but opted for the day trip to save money. It would have been awesome to spend a night out there!
Ate a great dinner at 'Yummy' restaurant.
Rented a scooter to cruise around the whole island. Stopped at Trung Trang cave and Cat Ba National Park where I hiked to the top to enjoy a beautiful view.
4-hour bus ride to Ninh Binh ($10)
Ninh Binh (2 nights)
Stayed at Tam Coc Nature lodge. This was one of the coolest hostels I've ever stayed at! The nature surrounding is breathtaking and the free breakfast was 10/10.
Rented a scooter and went to Hoa Lu (Ancient capitol) and Bai Dinh Pagoda where I spent two hours walking around admiring the beautiful mountain landscape.
Walked to Hang Mua where you can take the 500 steps up to a lookout with a dragon sculpture on top.
8-hour night bus to Phong Nha ($13)
Phong Nha (1 night)
Stayed at 'Nguyen Snack' which was a neat spot if you're comfortable with rustic accommodation.
Rented a scooter and drove around Phong Nha National Park. The scenery was stunning! There are lots of caves to explore and the botanical gardens are a must see.
4-hour bus ride to Hue ($7)
Hue (1 night)
This wasn't my favorite town because there wasn't much to see, but a good place to spot to break up the trip between Phong Nha and Hoi An.
Walked around town and went to see the imperial city.
3-hour bus ride to Hoi An.
Hoi An (3 nights)
Touristy for all the right reasons. Hoi An is an awesome town with lots to do!
Rented bikes for $1 and went to 2 different beaches.
Walked around the night market.
Ate at “Cay Tre Bamboo”. (Some of the best food I've ever eaten.)
Took a cooking class.
Rented a scooter to go see 'My Son'. Unfortunately is stared POURING rain so we didn't make it the whole way and went to see the coconuts village instead.
12-hour night bus to Nha Thang ($12)
Nha Thang (1 night)
Walked around the fairly large downtown city area.
Went to see the big white Buddha statue and Hindu temples.
4-hour bus to Dalat ($7)
Dalat (1 night)
I wasn't feeling well while in Dalat so didn't do much besides nap at hang out at the hostel.
Stayed at 'Red House' hostel. It was nice, but a little bit far from town.
4-hour bus ride to Mui Ne ($6)
Mui Ne (2 nights)
Stayed at 'Mui Ne Xua' Hostel. It was a super cool spot with bamboo style huts.
Went on a sunrise tour of the White Sand Dunes, Red Sand Dunes, a fishing port, and fairy creek.
TIP: Be careful of scammers at the sand dunes. It was still dark when we arrived at the dunes for sunrise so they tried to convince me that I needed to rent an ATV (for an additional change) to get to the highest sand dune with the best view because the walk would take too long. I opted to walk and as the sun came up, quickly realized it wasn't far at all.
5-hour bus to Saigon ($10)
Saigon (3 nights)
Stayed at LaLaLa hostel. The rooms were small, but they had the friendlies staff! It was New Years Eve when I was there. The manager invited me to celebrate with her friends (Tried homemade Vietnamese liquor... all I can say is that a little bit goes a LONG way.
Breakfast at 'Little Hanoi egg coffee' - very cute spot! Must try egg coffee while in Vietnam.
Remnant museum and tour of Chi Chu tunnels.
Saigon was my last stop in Vietnam. From there, I took a bus an 8-hour bus ride to Phnom Penh, Cambodia where I continued my travels through Cambodia.